Tomatoes, and why we love the soft ones

Out every day. Don't skip the softer ones: they're the best for cooking.

Tomatoes in a karahi

A proper karahi is built on fresh tomatoes, not tins. They go into the hot oil with the meat and cook down until the oil separates and the masala clings to the meat. Riper, softer tomatoes break down faster and give a sweeter, deeper sauce, so don't pass over the soft ones for cooking.

Beyond curry

Chopped with onion, cucumber, green chilli and lemon, they make kachumber salad to go with any grill. They're the base of spaghetti bolognese, shakshuka, harira and Afghan shorwa too.

Storing tomatoes

Keep them out of the fridge, stalk side down, for the best flavour. The fridge dulls their taste and makes the texture mealy. Only refrigerate them once they're very ripe and you need a day or two more, and bring them back to room temperature before eating raw.

What to make

• Lamb karahi Bone-in lamb cooked hard and fast with tomatoes, green chillies and black pepper. The Pakistani street-side classic, made at home in one pan. 1 hr 30 minHot
• Mince and tatties Scotland's favourite comfort food: beef mince simmered with onion and carrot in a rich gravy, with a big pile of buttery mashed potatoes. 1 hr 5 minMild
• Chicken biryani Marinated chicken on the bone layered with saffron basmati, fried onions and mint. The one-pot party dish everyone asks for. 1 hr 45 minHot
• Chicken tikka masala Charred chicken tikka in a creamy, gently spiced tomato sauce. Often credited to a Glasgow restaurant, and still the city's favourite curry. 55 minWarm
• Spaghetti bolognese A rich, slow-simmered beef mince sauce with tomatoes, carrot and herbs, tossed with spaghetti. The midweek dinner every family loves. 1 hr 30 minMild
• Lamb biryani Spiced lamb layered with part-cooked basmati, saffron, fried onions and mint, then steamed until every grain is fragrant. 2 hr 30 minHot

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