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How to make a curry from scratch: the bhuna method

The method behind almost every meat curry: onions, ginger and garlic, tomatoes, spices, and the moment the oil separates.

Checked October 2026

Almost every meat curry on this site follows the same seven stages. Learn them once and you can cook any of them, and make up your own.

The seven stages

  1. Whole spices in hot oil. Cumin seeds, cardamom, cloves or a bay leaf, for about 30 seconds until they sizzle and smell fragrant. Not every curry starts here.
  2. Onions. The stage that decides the curry. Golden, after 8 to 10 minutes, for lighter curries and korma. Deep brown, after 15 to 20 minutes, for biryani, pulao and mutton. Stir more often as they darken, and add a splash of water if they start to catch.
  3. Ginger and garlic. 1 to 2 minutes, until the raw smell has gone.
  4. The meat. On a high heat for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring, until browned. Chicken just needs to turn white. This is the bhuna: frying the meat hard builds flavour.
  5. Tomatoes and ground spices. Cook, stirring, until the tomatoes melt and the oil separates. You'll see oil pooling at the edges and the masala turns glossy and pulls away from the pan. This is the moment that matters most.
  6. Liquid and a long simmer. Add water or yoghurt, cover, and cook on a low heat until the meat is tender. See the times below.
  7. The finish. Garam masala, a rub of dried fenugreek leaves, fresh coriander, green chillies, a squeeze of lemon. Add these at the end so they stay bright.

How long to simmer

MeatSimmer, covered
Boneless chicken15 to 20 min
Chicken on the bone25 to 35 min
Lamb shoulder on the bone45 to 60 min
Lamb neck or shanks1½ to 3 hours
Mutton1½ to 2½ hours
Beef1½ to 2 hours

Not sure which cut to buy? Our butcher's guide matches dishes to cuts.

A basic curry for 1kg of meat

Use this as a starting point and change it to taste.

  • 5 tbsp oil or ghee
  • 2 large onions
  • 1 tbsp ginger paste and 1 tbsp garlic paste
  • 3 tomatoes, or a 400g tin
  • 1½ tsp salt
  • 1 tsp chilli powder
  • ½ tsp turmeric
  • 2 tsp ground coriander
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp garam masala, to finish

When it goes wrong

Too hot
Stir in yoghurt or cream off the heat, and serve with plain rice and raita.
Too thin
Take the lid off and cook on a medium heat until it thickens.
Bitter
The garlic or spices burnt. Next time, add them to slightly cooler oil and keep stirring.
Sour
Tinned or under-ripe tomatoes. A pinch of sugar balances them.
Bland
Usually not enough salt, or the onions and tomatoes weren't cooked long enough. Add salt a little at a time and taste.

Try it on

Aloo gosht, mutton curry, chicken karahi and keema matar all follow these stages.

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